They enjoyed playing in the parks of Delhi, running among the tombs, watching children hit cricket balls with pieces of wood and eating ice cream despite being told that they would probably get Delhi belly. In Udaipur they loved the small details among the heat and noise, the family of five balanced on a bicycle, elephants' backsides disappearing into the market place.
Riding through the Rajasthan countryside one day they waved at the women in the fields and berated the men for lying under the trees. They played with the children swimming by a lotus lake, skimmed stones with them, and followed them to their secret caves.
They became obsessed by the Hindu gods, reeling off the names of Shiva, Brahma and Hanuman, their stories and their transport. They lay on the marble floors of the temples sketching the paintings, fed the squirrels under the banyan trees and found Ganesh's mouse hidden among the carvings on the pillars.
